Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Best Pizzas Ever

Yes, we all know about the chains, the old reliable pick-something-up-on-the-way-home-from-work type of pizzas. Most of them are filling but unremarkable. A few of them (like my vodka drinking) lead to vows of abstinence after partaking.

And no, we didn't have pizza for dinner AGAIN -- I was talking about anchovies and that led to thinking of Great Pizzas I Have Had.

Paris, France: It is an unlikely place to associate with pizza, but somehow this little restaurant off the Boulevard Hausseman managed to take the humble pizza pie and give it a new twist. The crust was traditional thin crust, obviously handmade with just the right amount of texture and chew to keep it from being as dry as a cracker, with a delicate layer of tomato sauce, just enough cheese, and . . . smoked salmon slices arranged artistically around a dollop of créme fraîche. The combination of flavors was irresistible, and I determined to try it at home.

I can't get the thin crust part right -- my bread machine makes good pizza dough, but the dough lends itself cheerfully to a thicker crust than the one I had in Paris. However, there's a pizza place in Plano that does make a decent thin crust cheese pizza so I can take that and add the smoked salmon and créme fraîche, open a bottle of French wine, and have an approximation of that night in Paris.

Believe it or not, créme fraîche isn't that hard to make. I found the recipe, along with a great Créme Fraîche Scones recipe, on www.epicurious.com, which has replaced most of my cookbooks as my go-to for dinner ideas.

Put one pint of heavy whipping cream in a bowl, whisk in 2 Tablespoons of buttermilk, cover tightly, and leave for 12 hours in a warm area. I learned the hard way not to leave it on the counter that receives the air conditioning vent draft. One time I stuck it in the oven but put post-it notes all over the kitchen so I would remember to take it out of the oven before preheating. After 12 hours, put it in the fridge. It's good for 3 weeks (if it lasts that long), and in addition to the creme fraiche scone recipe, it's wonderful in sauces, in mashed potatoes, OBVIOUSLY on pizza, on berries -- wonderful stuff.

There's a restaurant in Dallas called Fireside Pies (two locations, I think) and they also have great pizza. My favorite has truffle oil and anchovies on it. I was tempted to ask for fresh garlic on it too but since I was out with the family, I figured if I did they'd make me walk home. As it was, I had to order the anchovies on the side or be doomed to eat an entire pizza by myself, a feat I haven't attempted since I left high school. I do love anchovies. They add great flavor to pizza, provide the kick in homemade Caesar salad dressing, and taste great with egg salad or just plain on a cracker with a glass of wine.

3 comments:

  1. You know that I am Mr. Picky and that everything has to be as plain as possible for me. So ... that said, my favorite pizza toppings are pepperoni, and sometimes pepperoni AND Canadian bacon. That's it, nothing else. The point of this comment. There was a sourdough pizza at Straw Hat in the 80s that was simply awesome. Then they left us here in Ventura County, maybe everywhere, and I haven't had one since.

    I wish I could eat a wide variety of things like you do. I'm sure I would enjoy many new things. But since I'm so picky, the best I can do is dwell on the few things that I do branch out on.

    At least by reading your blog I can fantasize about having more variety with my diet! :-)

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  2. Maybe my blog will tempt you to try something that you normally wouldn't consider and you may find that you actually like it! Don't start experiments with anchovies, though. They're very strong little fishies.

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  3. So Nina do you want to tell about the other pizza you once had on another visit to Paris?

    Fantastic ambience, a sidewalk cafe on the Champs-Elysees, we order a pizza with everything and the restaurant complied. Literally.

    I still smile about the fried egg in the middle.

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